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ALIX'S CORNER

Past Articles

Pumpkin Soup, a symbol of Haitian Independence and Unity

Origins of the conflict between Haiti and the Dominican Republic

Destination: Benin, Africa.
Part I: A Voyage to the Source

Destination: Benin, Africa.
Part II: Tradition and Modernity

 

Editorial
Destination: Benin, Africa. Tradition and Modernity- Part II

Streets of Cotonou: tradition and Modernity side by sideOne of the things that hit me right away in Benin was the way tradition was intertwined with modernity. Walking down the streets of Cotonou, it's as ubiquitous to meet men and women draped in the traditional booboo as to see them wearing jeans, the ultimate western attire. This is of course a superficial example further biased by the implied definition of modernity, which I seem to associate with western culture. let's be careful here. In this particular context, let's view modernity as opposed to traditional; modern Africa/traditional Africa. By modern I characterize all these attributes of African society that did not exist prior to colonization and have been brought by the arrival of the Europeans. Wearing jeans, Streets of Cotonou: Close-UpT-shirts and pants are a blatant example of that. But there are countless more examples of Africa's fusion of its traditional or pre-colonial culture with the modern post-colonial ways. The result is the creation of a continent with an incredibly flexible culture endowed with the ability to ever reinvent itself.

Map of Benin- Click for larger imageThis could be seen in Benin, our case study. That flexibility or union of the old and the new can be seen at every level; from the political organization of the country to the languages of the country to the food. Benin is a democracy. The form of government is a republic with an elected president (Mathieux Kerekou) a council of ministers and a parliament. Knowing this fact, I was surprised to learn that there were also kings in Benin.

King of Allada and His court. Allada is the birth Place of Toussaint LouvertureIn fact, there are two kings. They are the King of Allada and the King of Abomey. Allada and Abomey are the historic centers of the former glorious kingdoms of Allada and Dan’Homé respectively . On trips to Allada and Abomey, I had the chance to meet those kings. Going to Allada was a personal matter for me since I knew that it was Toussaint Louverture's place of origin. As one of the far-flung roots of Toussaint's giant tree I was somehow going home. In Allada we were quite opportune to witness a traditional ceremony preceding the arrival of the king and his court. King of Abomey and his entourageOur visit to Abomey was somewhat similar to Allada. What we noticed during both visits was the amount of respect and deference the population bestowed upon those now mostly honorary kings. As it is, kings are perceived as moral figures in Benin society. If the days of the Dahomey kingdom are over, the heritage and legacy of the past is cherished and honored in the personality of the kings who maintain good relations with the official government, mediating between the people and the government on certain matters. Many citizens consider Benin's peaceful shift to democracy in 1990 as a miracle. I wonder if the traditional kings played a role in assuring that process. In our next segment, we will greatly cover the rich and storied past of Benin and its former kingdoms.

Temple of PythonsReligion in Benin ties up past and present, traditional and imported. Benin’s main religion is Vodun. Like most of West Africa, Islam is also quite prevalent and is a fairly strong second to Vodun, while Christianity is lagging. All three however coexist in a peaceful harmony and varying degrees of syncretism. On one street in Cotonou, I Dance in Traditional Clothessaw a vodun temple right across from a very frequented  Catholic church. That is quite commonplace i was told. Many parishioners or adepts are know to frequent both locations and that is perfectly okay to most Beninese. There is no territorial division of the country based on religious affiliation like you may see in former yugoslavia or some other african countries. Dance in Traditional ClothesBeninese do not have religious quarrels for they believe that all are trying to serve God wherever he may be and through whichever cult they know. In two issues, we will cover religion especially the traditional religion of Vodun and compare it to Haitian Vodou.

Beninese children in traditional and more modern clothesAnother area where the Beninese connect the traditional and the modern is through language. Benin has around 42 ethnic groups speaking close to 40 languages. The most important ethnic groups are the Aja-Fon and the Yoruba in south Benin. Colonization has brought these ethnic groups into more and more contact with one another. Cotonou, the most important city has become a melting pot where dozens of languages can be heard. Street of Lome in TogoActually, many people speak as many as four, five and even eight languages. Merchants are forced by the necessities of their trade to be fluent in as many African languages as possible. Naturally, it would be impossible and impractical for all Beninese despite their multilingual capabilities to speak 42 languages. Thus French has become the denominator in Benin as it became one of the official languages of the country.

Children dancingIn the streets of Cotonou as in the official businesses, French is the most common language. But that doesn't stop the Beninese from shifting back and forth between their mother tongue and the imported one. Aside from French, the most current languages in Benin are Fon and Yoruba. Scholars hope that normal socio-economic factors will eventually propel Fon as the language denominator in Benin.

This melting Pot of traditional and modern constitutes an interesting tableau, an interesting dish of european and islamic influences on a strongly local dish. Observing Benin and other West African cultures from up close can be a very emotional experience.Warrior dance This is somewhat similar to looking at an array of infinite mirrors and seeing reflections of self. Not just flat optical mirrors but curvy, ondulating mirrors that peer into one's mind extract memories, fears, feelings, knowledge, behavior and experiences and reflect them through time, distance and infinite levels of what-if all to project visions that are as similar as they appear distinct. Warior Dance with Shango armorTransformations in Africa are not at-all too dissimilar to transforamtions having taken place in Haiti, itself an ever-evolving blend of african, hispanic, taino, european and lately north american.

In the next two issues of Alix's Corner, we will explore historical kingdoms, the slave trade, beninese feelings towards Haiti, and finally vodun and other related cults. Let us continue then this exploration of Benin together. Stay Posted!

We invite you to write us . As well, we open the discussion boards to you (as they have always been). Come and share your experience, thoughts, stories, questions with us.

Women wearing traditional clothes

 

Flag of the Republic of BeninFacts about Benin:

  • Benin lies on the West Coast of Africa on 112,620 square kilometers and is inhabited by 6,305,567 (July 1999 est.)
  • In Benin there are more than 40 ethnic groups speaking 51 languages. French is the official language. The other most important languages are Fon and Yoruba in the South.
  • Porto-Novo is the official capital; Cotonou is the seat of government
  • Benin was home to the famous 18th century kingdom of Dan-Xome, meaning inside Dan's stomach.
  • Most Haitians trace their ancestry to Benin.In particular Toussaint Louverture's grandfather was a King of Allada (sic).
  • Benin is the cradle of Vodou. Many of the Beninese vodou Gods, such as Legba, Ogu, or Damballah, were transplanted to Haiti during slavery.Angelique Kidjo's latest album: Oremi
  • Religious syncretism characterizes Benin; there, Christianity, Islam and Vodou cohabit peacefully.
  • Benin is the birthplace of the internationally famous artists Angelique Kidjo and Djimon Hounsou (Amistad)

Additional Information

Books on Benin

Music and crafts